Prairie
Monarch butterfly.
Photo: Carol Freeman
Because Illinois is the Prairie State, you’d think that most of us
would be well versed in prairie-speak. However, not many of us have yet
learned to discern the exotic and wildly beautiful subtleties of our prairies.
The majority of the vast prairies of Illinois were converted into cornfields.
But wherever the soil was too rocky, or too mucky, or was loved by an influential
nature enthusiast, small pockets persist, from tiny remnants to massive
restorations. Spread throughout the region, prairies can usually be found
within a few minutes of home.
Each prairie’s location shaped its own unique plant
communities. The casual observer can learn to distinguish between moist
black-soil prairies (formed on thick, flat beds of glacial till) and dry
sandy prairies (formed on deposits from ancient glacial lakes). Taller
vegetation means that the ground is wetter, says Bill Kleiman, project
manager at The Nature Conservancy’s Nachusa Grasslands. Plants often
adapt to less moisture by staying shorter. White, rocky outcroppings might
well be limestone scraped bare by the glaciers 10,000 years ago, giving
rise to the very short dolomite prairie. Hilly areas suggest gravel deposits,
the perfect home for dry hill prairies. And all prairies share a dependence
on fire to keep them free of woody species.
Chiwaukee Prairie.
Photo: Donald Bolak
Appreciating this rare ecosystem, an ocean of tallgrass and wildflowers
that once rippled to the horizon, is a sensory experience. “You don’t
have to be an expert,” says John Elliott, education manager for the
Forest Preserve District of Cook County. Elliott advises observing details,
even if you can’t put a name to a single thing.
Rough blazing star.
Photo: David Schwaegler
If it’s spring, get down on your knees and peer for early bloomers:
the reddish and yellow ruffles of wood betony, the furry flowers of cat’s
foot waving antenna-like. Watch for bobolinks and meadowlarks flitting
over last year’s dried foliage. If the acrid scent of charcoal wrinkles
your nose (and you see charred earth), you’ve likely entered a landscape
that was recently burned to encourage native growth.
In summer, look for the numerous species of milkweed that
come in a variety of colors. Monarch butterflies feed on their nectar,
and a closer look may reveal their caterpillars feeding on the leaves.
If you are lucky, you might see an orange-and-black hawk moth using its
proboscis to feed on the lavender flowers of the fragrant wild bergamot.
Keep following your nose: the scent of spearmint betrays mountain mint.
A whiff of turpentine signifies a crushed prairie dock leaf.
In late summer and early fall, the large, scratchy leaves of plants known
as Silphiums are impossible to miss: those wide leaves with raspy,
outspread fingers are that of a compass plant. Those chilly, sail-shaped
leaves are prairie dock; they remain cool on even the hottest days because
their deep roots pump water from far below the surface.
Meadowhawk dragonfly.
Photo: Thomas Bentley
In fall, you might catch the essence of buttered popcorn. That’s prairie
dropseed, a distinctive fall-blooming grass with a mounded base that
sprouts waving stems. The seedheads of yellow coneflower will leave your
fingers with a lemony fragrance.
In winter, listen for the clatter of dried foliage encrusted with ice on
bitter days. Jack Shouba, a botany instructor at The Morton Arboretum,
notes that many of the grasses and wildflowers retain distinctive characteristics—big
bluestem, for example, mimics a turkey foot; little bluestem looks reddish
in winter. Look up and you might find a hawk in search of voles or rabbits.
Look down and you might find coyote scat that contains hair and bones of
a recent supper.
While the most colorful time for the prairie is mid-August, prairie lovers
generally agree that there’s no best time to visit. “What you
saw two weeks ago will be different today,” says Shouba. “You
need to go back again and again, and every time you will see something
different.”
—LeAnn Spencer
Great Local Prairies
Goose Lake Prairie.
Photo: Casey Galvin
Somme Prairie
Nature Preserve
Northbrook, IL (Cook County)
High-quality remnant of Grade-A mesic black-soil prairie with rich flora.
Also check out adjoining Somme Prairie Grove and Somme Woods.
Wolf
Road Prairie
Westchester, IL (Cook County)
Large black-soil prairie remnant surrounded by bur oak savanna. Old sidewalks
built for an abandoned development make it an easy stroll.
Goose
Lake Prairie
Morris, IL (Grundy County)
Largest remnant east of the Mississippi, spared the plow by being too wet.
Belmont
Prairie
Downers Grove, IL (DuPage)
Uncommon dry hill prairie with notably more broad-leafed plants and wildflowers
than grasses.
Chiwaukee
Prairie
Kenosha, WI (Kenosha County)
Sandy prairie, ranging from wet to dry, along the Lake Michigan coast.
Boasts impressive plant and animal species, including a popular spring
display of shooting stars.
Powderhorn
Prairie
Chicago, IL (Cook County)
Sand prairie formed on ancient dune ridges, interspersed with sand savanna.
Burlington Prairie
Burlington, IL (Kane County)
An Illinois Nature Preserve, this undisturbed tract of dry to moist prairie
has benefitted from prescribed burns.
Indian
Boundary Prairies
Markham, IL (Cook County)
A cluster of four prairie remnants featuring black-soil prairie as well
as sand prairie atop the deposits of ancient Lake Chicago.
Kankakee
Sands
Morocco, IN (Newton County)
Vast stretch of flat sand prairie undergoing intensive restoration; many
grassland bird species call it home.
Theodore
Stone Forest Preserve
Hodgkins, IL (Cook County)
A shallow-soiled dolomite prairie, set amongst hilly oak woodlands, featuring
sparse vegetation and limestone outcrops.
Shoe
Factory Road Prairie
Hoffman Estates, IL (Cook)
Part of Poplar Creek Forest Preserve, this restoration-in-progress includes
a high-quality hill prairie on a large kame, from which visitors can survey
the entire preserve.
Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie
Wilmington, IL (Will County)
Giant prairie restoration-in-progress on the former site of the Joliet
Arsenal; official tours help locate prairie remnants and grassland birds.
Lockport
Prairie
Lockport, IL (Will County)
Long stretch of rare dolomite prairie along the Des Plaines River that
hosts many unusual plant species and the endangered Hine’s emerald
dragonfly.
Woodland
Bloodroot.
Photo: Pat Wadecki
Many of us have a favorite bit of woods—a nearby forest preserve
perhaps, or just a scrubby half acre behind the house. You can best enjoy
your woods by visiting often—at each season of the year, at all times
of the day.
Woodland landscapes have been shaped by many factors, including climate,
soil type, topography, and drainage. In our area, the densest woodlands
often developed on the east side of rivers, where they were largely protected
from prairie fires driven by the prevailing westerly winds. Where fires
could penetrate, the trees grew farther apart. Resultingly, our woods range
from savannas—basically grasslands with some trees—to dense
beech-maple forests.
Flatwoods developed in areas where underlying clay restricts drainage,
and can be flooded for long periods during the year. Most common in Chicago
Wilderness, however, are oak-hickory woodlands, with a relatively open
canopy that favors an understory of shrubs and wildflowers.
Messenger Woods.
Photo: Dennis Light
The winter woods may look lifeless and barren, a montage of dull grays
and browns. Find a place to stop, however, and let your senses take over.
A woodpecker drums
in the distance, and an unseen creature rustles through the leaf litter.
A hint of musk in the air betrays a nearby fox den. A gravity-defying nuthatch
hops headfirst down a tree trunk. Bare branches reveal abandoned nests—a
bird’s delicate woven cup, a yellowjacket colony’s large papery
orb.
Check the fresh morning snow for signs of
nocturnal creatures. Look for the prints of tiny mouse feet tracing back
and forth across the trail. The track of a fox is easy to spot: a straight
line of prints, each one precisely placed in front of its predecessor.
Deer hooves are obvious, but many other prints will have you consulting
a field guide.
Barred owls.
Photo: Stan Osolinski
Spring arrives with a flourish of sound and color. Breeding frogs start
calling from temporary woodland ponds in March. Learn to pick out the distinct
sounds produced by each species.
May apples spring up as small green parasols in April, and ephemeral wildflowers
burst into bloom throughout the month. Carry a digital camera to record
your finds, then take your time identifying them at home.
Wood ducks in ponds are easily spooked, escaping with a loud, splashy commotion
to a high perch nearby. Migrant birds are at their peak in mid-May, arriving
in their finest plumage. Bring binoculars to
bring them into focus. More experienced birders can often identify them
by song.
Summer woodlands are shady, green, and lush, but swarms of mosquitoes may
quickly drive the unprepared visitor away. The young of many animals start
to venture away from mother’s side; watch for deer fawns peering
out of the brush or raccoon kits playing at trail’s edge.
Gray fox.
Photo: Rob Curtis/The Early Birder
Examine the great diversity of tree leaves, and remember tree shapes and
bark types to help in winter identification. Look for galls on leaves and
twigs where insect larvae are growing. Sulphur shelf fungi, brilliantly
orange and yellow, light up the woods like small fires.
Autumn’s colors are best along the sunny edges of woodlands, but
shrubs such as sassafras and vines such as poison ivy and Virginia creeper
brighten the interior. Acorns litter the ground, and squirrels gather them
for winter caches. Migrant birds return in September, but they are duller
in color—a greater challenge to identify.
Monarch butterflies gather on the threshold of woodlands in advance of
their long flight south. Look for “buck rubs” on tree saplings,
where male deer have scraped the velvet from their antlers. Witch hazel
flowers appear late in the season, emerging from bare branches like creepy,
yellow fingers.
Any time of year is a good time to explore your local woods. So get your
boots on, and get going!
—Ron Trigg
Great Local Woodlands
Messenger Woods.
Photo: Pat Wadecki
Illinois
Beach State Park
Zion, IL (Lake County)
Strips of black oak savanna and woodland lining ancient dune ridges between
sedgy swales.
Zanders
Woods
Thornton, IL (Cook County)
Sandy black oak woodland with numerous fern species and sassafras, a fragrant-leaved
understory tree.
Gibson
Woods
Hammond, IN (Lake County)
Dune-and-swale topography supporting black oak savanna and woodland; a
survivor of the industrial development of northwest Indiana.
Middlefork
Savanna
Lake Forest, IL (Lake County)
Large remnant of tallgrass bur oak savanna combined with prairie and sedge
meadow.
Somme
Prairie Grove
Northbrook, IL (Cook County)
Patchwork of tallgrass savanna and bur oak woodland; once a weedy buckthorn
thicket, now restored to good condition.
Moraine
Hills State Park
McHenry, IL (McHenry County)
Majestic white and bur oak woodlands top glacial moraines and kames, overlooking
expansive marshes, lakes, and sedge meadows.
Ryerson
Conservation Area
Deerfield, IL (Lake County)
A variety of oak and maple woods nestled in a curve on the east bank of
the Des Plaines River.
Norris
Woods
St. Charles, IL (Kane County)
Illinois Nature Preserve along the east bank of the Fox River, with intact
red and white oak upland woods and many unusual plant species.
Freeman
Kame-Ed Meagher
Gilberts, IL (Kane County)
Oak-hickory woodlands are perched atop tall gravel kames in this hilly,
picturesque preserve.
Messenger
Woods
Lockport, IL (Will County)
Rolling old-growth oak uplands and maple-dominated lowlands; famously showy
spring wildflower display.
O’Hara
Woods
Romeoville, IL (Will County)
Illinois Nature Preserve featuring maple and oak woods, historically protected
from fire by ravines and springs.
Deer
Grove Forest Preserve
Palatine, IL (Cook County)
Vast complex of oak-hickory woodland, prairie and wetland, containing the
first land purchased by the Forest Preserve District of Cook County.
Palos
Region Preserves
Palos Hills, IL (Cook County)
Oak-hickory woodlands of all shapes and sizes cover the morainal preserves
of the vast Palos area in southwestern Cook County. Includes Swallow Cliff
Woods and Cap Sauers Holdings.
Harms
Woods
Skokie, IL (Cook County)
Rich oak woodland on the west side of the North Branch of the Chicago River,
and flatwoods with black ash and swamp white oak east of Harms Road.
Wetland
Spiderwort.
Photo: Pat Wadecki
Stand on the water’s edge. Peek through a cattailed perimeter. Be
surprised by soggy soil. In Chicago Wilderness there are thousands of wetlands
in all shapes and sizes waiting to be explored.
Marshes first come to mind. When the glaciers pulled back more than 10,000
years ago, they left kettles, potholes, and swales that filled with runoff
and groundwater to become basin marshes. Along waterways that haven’t
been heavily impacted by development, floodplain marshes line the shores.
The region also has a number of sedge meadows. These are saturated with
groundwater, creating a mucky stew of peat and soil where sedges, grass-like
plants, thrive. Tussocks, which are solid clumps of hummock
sedge, roots, and rhizomes, can fill a sedge meadow from end to end.
Bogs, fens, pannes, seeps, and springs are rare wetlands in Chicago Wilderness,
each arising from a particular set of conditions. The acidity of bogs,
the alkalinity of fens, the constant disturbance of pannes, and the cold
temperature of springs provide just the right home for a diverse array
of sensitive species in each, from the bluebell dragonfly to the northern
cricket frog.
Spears Woods.
Photo: Mike MacDonald/ChicagoNature.com
Getting up close and personal to a wetland can be tricky, but not impossible.
Some of our wetlands are accessible by boardwalks. A distance out, you
almost float amongst the wildlife and swaying aquatic plants. You won’t
get very far very fast—a boardwalk is for standing and peering.
Broad-leaved arrowhead.
Photo: Rob Curtis/The Early Birder
Where there is only a path around a wetland, you may circle nature’s
mysteries, but will have to respect her often unpredictable boundaries. “Venture
too far and you may have to fish a boot out of the suction of a muddy depression,” cautions
Nan Buckardt, education director for the Lake County Forest Preserves.
Wetland ecology should be considered as well, she adds, since “the
moist soil can be easily compacted or disturbed.”
For another perspective, you can canoe through
wetlands with deeper water. The animal residents won’t expect you
in that way and are often less afraid.
Winter is the best time to figure out where a wetland starts and to appreciate
its expanse. Frosty emergent plants edge the icy water among exploded cattail
heads. If there is no snow, you can look for critters lurking below the
ice. “Once I saw a snapping turtle completely frozen and he blinked
at me,” recalls Jack MacRae, naturalist for the Forest Preserve District
of DuPage County.
In the late winter and early spring, splashes of color sneak back into
the wetlands. Red-winged blackbirds return to set up territory. “There
are no leaves on the trees, the snowmelt glistens, and a wonderful surprise
of brilliant green leaves and stunningly gold marsh marigold petals burst
forth from the soil,” says Buckardt. A few weeks later, in the same
swampy area, look for wild blue irises.
Hooded Merganser.
Photo: Willy Onarheim/AKM Images, Inc.
Peer into ephemeral woodland ponds full of snowmelt and spring rains to
catch a glimpse of springtime’s bounty. Without the carnivorous fish
that reside in permanent wetlands, smaller creatures can grow to maturity
here: wood frogs, blue-spotted
salamanders, and tiny fairy shrimp that swim upside-down. In May, watch
for salamanders moving to higher ground.
Wetland summers are ablaze with color and movement. Rose mallow, cardinal
flower, and great blue lobelia provide a bright backdrop for a busily stirring
scene—scan the water’s surface for water boatmen bugs paddling
with oar-like legs, or the protruding head of a leopard frog or pied-billed
grebe.
In the fall, MacRae suggests keeping an eye out for turtle hatchlings “stumbling
along a path looking for water.” The wetland plants respond to daylight’s
narrowing window by turning tan and maroon, adds Buckardt, while, she says, “winds
rattle the plants like a band’s rhythm section” to herald the year’s
end.
—Alison Carney Brown
Great Local Wetlands
Wright Woods.
Photo: Donald Bolak
Cuba
Marsh
Barrington, IL (Lake County)
Large tract of former farmland, restored to become attractive habitat for
nesting and migratory birds.
Bluff
Spring Fen
Elgin, IL (Cook County)
Clear, cold-water streams flow through alkaline fens surrounded by hill
prairie and bur oak woodland.
Lake
in the Hills Fen
Lake in the Hills, IL (McHenry)
Glacial gravel deposits feed numerous seeps, hanging fens, and rare fen
species.
Nelson
Lake Marsh/Dick Young Forest Preserve
Batavia, IL (Kane County)
The pristine glacially carved lake and marsh is recharged by groundwater
from surrounding gravel hills, which historically prevented development.
Blackwell
Forest Preserve
Warrenville, IL (DuPage County)
The glacial terrain gave rise to the preserve’s McKee Marsh, and
provided conditions that preserved remains of a woolly mammoth here.
Illinois
Beach State Park
Zion, IL (Lake County)
In addition to expansive marshes and sedge meadows, features globally rare
panne (sandy interdunal wetland), with many unusual plants that make for
a showy late summer and fall.
Elizabeth
Lake Nature Preserve
Richmond, IL (McHenry County)
One of the highest-quality lakes in Illinois, surrounded by graminoid bog
and fen, calcareous floating mats, and sedge meadow.
Glacial
Park
Ringwood, IL (McHenry County)
Large, hilly preserve containing restored marsh and sedge meadow, the remeandered
Nippersink Creek, and an unusual leatherleaf bog.
Cowles
Bog
Dune Acres, IN (Porter County)
Calcium-rich floating mat fen in Indiana Dunes supports tamaracks and white
pines, surrounded by locally rare red maple and birch forest.
Trout
Park
Elgin, IL (Kane County)
Contains a rare wooded fen, with seeps and springs issuing from ravine
banks; harbors many species unusual to Illinois.
Volo
Bog
Ingleside, IL (Lake County)
The only acid bog in Illinois featuring all stages of bog succession—marsh,
tamarack woods, shrubland, sphagnum bog, and open water.
Related articles:
Into
the Wild: Appreciating Prairies, CW Summer 2006
Rebirth
of the Oak Woods, CW Fall 1997