Learn how you can enjoy a
Prairie, Woodland, and Wetland

Prairie

Monarch butterfly

Monarch butterfly.

Photo: Carol Freeman

Because Illinois is the Prairie State, you’d think that most of us would be well versed in prairie-speak. However, not many of us have yet learned to discern the exotic and wildly beautiful subtleties of our prairies.
The majority of the vast prairies of Illinois were converted into cornfields. But wherever the soil was too rocky, or too mucky, or was loved by an influential nature enthusiast, small pockets persist, from tiny remnants to massive restorations. Spread throughout the region, prairies can usually be found within a few minutes of home.

Each prairie’s location shaped its own unique plant communities. The casual observer can learn to distinguish between moist black-soil prairies (formed on thick, flat beds of glacial till) and dry sandy prairies (formed on deposits from ancient glacial lakes). Taller vegetation means that the ground is wetter, says Bill Kleiman, project manager at The Nature Conservancy’s Nachusa Grasslands. Plants often adapt to less moisture by staying shorter. White, rocky outcroppings might well be limestone scraped bare by the glaciers 10,000 years ago, giving rise to the very short dolomite prairie. Hilly areas suggest gravel deposits, the perfect home for dry hill prairies. And all prairies share a dependence on fire to keep them free of woody species.

Chiwaukee Prairie

Chiwaukee Prairie.

Photo: Donald Bolak

Appreciating this rare ecosystem, an ocean of tallgrass and wildflowers that once rippled to the horizon, is a sensory experience. “You don’t have to be an expert,” says John Elliott, education manager for the Forest Preserve District of Cook County. Elliott advises observing details, even if you can’t put a name to a single thing.

Rough blazing star

Rough blazing star.

Photo: David Schwaegler

If it’s spring, get down on your knees and peer for early bloomers: the reddish and yellow ruffles of wood betony, the furry flowers of cat’s foot waving antenna-like. Watch for bobolinks and meadowlarks flitting over last year’s dried foliage. If the acrid scent of charcoal wrinkles your nose (and you see charred earth), you’ve likely entered a landscape that was recently burned to encourage native growth.

In summer, look for the numerous species of milkweed that come in a variety of colors. Monarch butterflies feed on their nectar, and a closer look may reveal their caterpillars feeding on the leaves. If you are lucky, you might see an orange-and-black hawk moth using its proboscis to feed on the lavender flowers of the fragrant wild bergamot. Keep following your nose: the scent of spearmint betrays mountain mint. A whiff of turpentine signifies a crushed prairie dock leaf.

In late summer and early fall, the large, scratchy leaves of plants known as Silphiums are impossible to miss: those wide leaves with raspy, outspread fingers are that of a compass plant. Those chilly, sail-shaped leaves are prairie dock; they remain cool on even the hottest days because their deep roots pump water from far below the surface.

Meadowhawk dragonfly

Meadowhawk dragonfly.

Photo: Thomas Bentley

In fall, you might catch the essence of buttered popcorn. That’s prairie dropseed, a distinctive fall-blooming grass with a mounded base that sprouts waving stems. The seedheads of yellow coneflower will leave your fingers with a lemony fragrance.

In winter, listen for the clatter of dried foliage encrusted with ice on bitter days. Jack Shouba, a botany instructor at The Morton Arboretum, notes that many of the grasses and wildflowers retain distinctive characteristics—big bluestem, for example, mimics a turkey foot; little bluestem looks reddish in winter. Look up and you might find a hawk in search of voles or rabbits. Look down and you might find coyote scat that contains hair and bones of a recent supper.

While the most colorful time for the prairie is mid-August, prairie lovers generally agree that there’s no best time to visit. “What you saw two weeks ago will be different today,” says Shouba. “You need to go back again and again, and every time you will see something different.”

—LeAnn Spencer

 

Great Local Prairies
Goose Lake Prairie

Goose Lake Prairie.

Photo: Casey Galvin

Somme Prairie Nature Preserve
Northbrook, IL (Cook County)
High-quality remnant of Grade-A mesic black-soil prairie with rich flora. Also check out adjoining Somme Prairie Grove and Somme Woods.

Wolf Road Prairie
Westchester, IL (Cook County)
Large black-soil prairie remnant surrounded by bur oak savanna. Old sidewalks built for an abandoned development make it an easy stroll.

Goose Lake Prairie
Morris, IL (Grundy County)
Largest remnant east of the Mississippi, spared the plow by being too wet.

Belmont Prairie
Downers Grove, IL (DuPage)
Uncommon dry hill prairie with notably more broad-leafed plants and wildflowers than grasses.

Chiwaukee Prairie
Kenosha, WI (Kenosha County)
Sandy prairie, ranging from wet to dry, along the Lake Michigan coast. Boasts impressive plant and animal species, including a popular spring display of shooting stars.

Powderhorn Prairie
Chicago, IL (Cook County)
Sand prairie formed on ancient dune ridges, interspersed with sand savanna.

Burlington Prairie
Burlington, IL (Kane County)
An Illinois Nature Preserve, this undisturbed tract of dry to moist prairie has benefitted from prescribed burns.

Indian Boundary Prairies
Markham, IL (Cook County)
A cluster of four prairie remnants featuring black-soil prairie as well as sand prairie atop the deposits of ancient Lake Chicago.

Kankakee Sands
Morocco, IN (Newton County)
Vast stretch of flat sand prairie undergoing intensive restoration; many grassland bird species call it home.

Theodore Stone Forest Preserve
Hodgkins, IL (Cook County)
A shallow-soiled dolomite prairie, set amongst hilly oak woodlands, featuring sparse vegetation and limestone outcrops.

Shoe Factory Road Prairie
Hoffman Estates, IL (Cook)
Part of Poplar Creek Forest Preserve, this restoration-in-progress includes a high-quality hill prairie on a large kame, from which visitors can survey the entire preserve.

Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie
Wilmington, IL (Will County)
Giant prairie restoration-in-progress on the former site of the Joliet Arsenal; official tours help locate prairie remnants and grassland birds.

Lockport Prairie
Lockport, IL (Will County)
Long stretch of rare dolomite prairie along the Des Plaines River that hosts many unusual plant species and the endangered Hine’s emerald dragonfly.


Woodland

Bloodroot

Bloodroot.

Photo: Pat Wadecki

Many of us have a favorite bit of woods—a nearby forest preserve perhaps, or just a scrubby half acre behind the house. You can best enjoy your woods by visiting often—at each season of the year, at all times of the day.

Woodland landscapes have been shaped by many factors, including climate, soil type, topography, and drainage. In our area, the densest woodlands often developed on the east side of rivers, where they were largely protected from prairie fires driven by the prevailing westerly winds. Where fires could penetrate, the trees grew farther apart. Resultingly, our woods range from savannas—basically grasslands with some trees—to dense beech-maple forests.

Flatwoods developed in areas where underlying clay restricts drainage, and can be flooded for long periods during the year. Most common in Chicago Wilderness, however, are oak-hickory woodlands, with a relatively open canopy that favors an understory of shrubs and wildflowers.

Messenger Woods

Messenger Woods.

Photo: Dennis Light

The winter woods may look lifeless and barren, a montage of dull grays and browns. Find a place to stop, however, and let your senses take over.

A woodpecker drums in the distance, and an unseen creature rustles through the leaf litter. A hint of musk in the air betrays a nearby fox den. A gravity-defying nuthatch hops headfirst down a tree trunk. Bare branches reveal abandoned nests—a bird’s delicate woven cup, a yellowjacket colony’s large papery orb.

Check the fresh morning snow for signs of nocturnal creatures. Look for the prints of tiny mouse feet tracing back and forth across the trail. The track of a fox is easy to spot: a straight line of prints, each one precisely placed in front of its predecessor. Deer hooves are obvious, but many other prints will have you consulting a field guide.

Barred owls

Barred owls.

Photo: Stan Osolinski

Spring arrives with a flourish of sound and color. Breeding frogs start calling from temporary woodland ponds in March. Learn to pick out the distinct sounds produced by each species.

May apples spring up as small green parasols in April, and ephemeral wildflowers burst into bloom throughout the month. Carry a digital camera to record your finds, then take your time identifying them at home.

Wood ducks in ponds are easily spooked, escaping with a loud, splashy commotion to a high perch nearby. Migrant birds are at their peak in mid-May, arriving in their finest plumage. Bring binoculars to bring them into focus. More experienced birders can often identify them by song.

Summer woodlands are shady, green, and lush, but swarms of mosquitoes may quickly drive the unprepared visitor away. The young of many animals start to venture away from mother’s side; watch for deer fawns peering out of the brush or raccoon kits playing at trail’s edge.

Gray fox

Gray fox.

Photo: Rob Curtis/The Early Birder

Examine the great diversity of tree leaves, and remember tree shapes and bark types to help in winter identification. Look for galls on leaves and twigs where insect larvae are growing. Sulphur shelf fungi, brilliantly orange and yellow, light up the woods like small fires.

Autumn’s colors are best along the sunny edges of woodlands, but shrubs such as sassafras and vines such as poison ivy and Virginia creeper brighten the interior. Acorns litter the ground, and squirrels gather them for winter caches. Migrant birds return in September, but they are duller in color—a greater challenge to identify.

Monarch butterflies gather on the threshold of woodlands in advance of their long flight south. Look for “buck rubs” on tree saplings, where male deer have scraped the velvet from their antlers. Witch hazel flowers appear late in the season, emerging from bare branches like creepy, yellow fingers.

Any time of year is a good time to explore your local woods. So get your boots on, and get going!

—Ron Trigg

 

Great Local Woodlands
Messenger Woods

Messenger Woods.

Photo: Pat Wadecki

Illinois Beach State Park
Zion, IL (Lake County)
Strips of black oak savanna and woodland lining ancient dune ridges between sedgy swales.

Zanders Woods
Thornton, IL (Cook County)
Sandy black oak woodland with numerous fern species and sassafras, a fragrant-leaved understory tree.

Gibson Woods
Hammond, IN (Lake County)
Dune-and-swale topography supporting black oak savanna and woodland; a survivor of the industrial development of northwest Indiana.

Middlefork Savanna
Lake Forest, IL (Lake County)
Large remnant of tallgrass bur oak savanna combined with prairie and sedge meadow.

Somme Prairie Grove
Northbrook, IL (Cook County)
Patchwork of tallgrass savanna and bur oak woodland; once a weedy buckthorn thicket, now restored to good condition.

Moraine Hills State Park
McHenry, IL (McHenry County)
Majestic white and bur oak woodlands top glacial moraines and kames, overlooking expansive marshes, lakes, and sedge meadows.

Ryerson Conservation Area
Deerfield, IL (Lake County)
A variety of oak and maple woods nestled in a curve on the east bank of the Des Plaines River.

Norris Woods
St. Charles, IL (Kane County)
Illinois Nature Preserve along the east bank of the Fox River, with intact red and white oak upland woods and many unusual plant species.

Freeman Kame-Ed Meagher
Gilberts, IL (Kane County)
Oak-hickory woodlands are perched atop tall gravel kames in this hilly, picturesque preserve.

Messenger Woods
Lockport, IL (Will County)
Rolling old-growth oak uplands and maple-dominated lowlands; famously showy spring wildflower display.

O’Hara Woods
Romeoville, IL (Will County)
Illinois Nature Preserve featuring maple and oak woods, historically protected from fire by ravines and springs.

Deer Grove Forest Preserve
Palatine, IL (Cook County)
Vast complex of oak-hickory woodland, prairie and wetland, containing the first land purchased by the Forest Preserve District of Cook County.

Palos Region Preserves
Palos Hills, IL (Cook County)
Oak-hickory woodlands of all shapes and sizes cover the morainal preserves of the vast Palos area in southwestern Cook County. Includes Swallow Cliff Woods and Cap Sauers Holdings.

Harms Woods
Skokie, IL (Cook County)
Rich oak woodland on the west side of the North Branch of the Chicago River, and flatwoods with black ash and swamp white oak east of Harms Road.


Wetland

Spiderwort

Spiderwort.

Photo: Pat Wadecki

Stand on the water’s edge. Peek through a cattailed perimeter. Be surprised by soggy soil. In Chicago Wilderness there are thousands of wetlands in all shapes and sizes waiting to be explored.

Marshes first come to mind. When the glaciers pulled back more than 10,000 years ago, they left kettles, potholes, and swales that filled with runoff and groundwater to become basin marshes. Along waterways that haven’t been heavily impacted by development, floodplain marshes line the shores.

The region also has a number of sedge meadows. These are saturated with groundwater, creating a mucky stew of peat and soil where sedges, grass-like plants, thrive. Tussocks, which are solid clumps of hummock sedge, roots, and rhizomes, can fill a sedge meadow from end to end.
Bogs, fens, pannes, seeps, and springs are rare wetlands in Chicago Wilderness, each arising from a particular set of conditions. The acidity of bogs, the alkalinity of fens, the constant disturbance of pannes, and the cold temperature of springs provide just the right home for a diverse array of sensitive species in each, from the bluebell dragonfly to the northern cricket frog.

Spears Woods

Spears Woods.

Photo: Mike MacDonald/ChicagoNature.com

Getting up close and personal to a wetland can be tricky, but not impossible. Some of our wetlands are accessible by boardwalks. A distance out, you almost float amongst the wildlife and swaying aquatic plants. You won’t get very far very fast—a boardwalk is for standing and peering.

Broad-leaved arrowhead

Broad-leaved arrowhead.

Photo: Rob Curtis/The Early Birder

Where there is only a path around a wetland, you may circle nature’s mysteries, but will have to respect her often unpredictable boundaries. “Venture too far and you may have to fish a boot out of the suction of a muddy depression,” cautions Nan Buckardt, education director for the Lake County Forest Preserves. Wetland ecology should be considered as well, she adds, since “the moist soil can be easily compacted or disturbed.”

For another perspective, you can canoe through wetlands with deeper water. The animal residents won’t expect you in that way and are often less afraid.

Winter is the best time to figure out where a wetland starts and to appreciate its expanse. Frosty emergent plants edge the icy water among exploded cattail heads. If there is no snow, you can look for critters lurking below the ice. “Once I saw a snapping turtle completely frozen and he blinked at me,” recalls Jack MacRae, naturalist for the Forest Preserve District of DuPage County.

In the late winter and early spring, splashes of color sneak back into the wetlands. Red-winged blackbirds return to set up territory. “There are no leaves on the trees, the snowmelt glistens, and a wonderful surprise of brilliant green leaves and stunningly gold marsh marigold petals burst forth from the soil,” says Buckardt. A few weeks later, in the same swampy area, look for wild blue irises.

Hooded merganser

Hooded Merganser.

Photo: Willy Onarheim/AKM Images, Inc.

Peer into ephemeral woodland ponds full of snowmelt and spring rains to catch a glimpse of springtime’s bounty. Without the carnivorous fish that reside in permanent wetlands, smaller creatures can grow to maturity here: wood frogs, blue-spotted salamanders, and tiny fairy shrimp that swim upside-down. In May, watch for salamanders moving to higher ground.

Wetland summers are ablaze with color and movement. Rose mallow, cardinal flower, and great blue lobelia provide a bright backdrop for a busily stirring scene—scan the water’s surface for water boatmen bugs paddling with oar-like legs, or the protruding head of a leopard frog or pied-billed grebe.

In the fall, MacRae suggests keeping an eye out for turtle hatchlings “stumbling along a path looking for water.” The wetland plants respond to daylight’s narrowing window by turning tan and maroon, adds Buckardt, while, she says, “winds rattle the plants like a band’s rhythm section” to herald the year’s end.

—Alison Carney Brown

 

Great Local Wetlands
Wright Woods

Wright Woods.

Photo: Donald Bolak

Cuba Marsh
Barrington, IL (Lake County)
Large tract of former farmland, restored to become attractive habitat for nesting and migratory birds.

Bluff Spring Fen
Elgin, IL (Cook County)
Clear, cold-water streams flow through alkaline fens surrounded by hill prairie and bur oak woodland.

Lake in the Hills Fen
Lake in the Hills, IL (McHenry)
Glacial gravel deposits feed numerous seeps, hanging fens, and rare fen species.

Nelson Lake Marsh/Dick Young Forest Preserve
Batavia, IL (Kane County)
The pristine glacially carved lake and marsh is recharged by groundwater from surrounding gravel hills, which historically prevented development.

Blackwell Forest Preserve
Warrenville, IL (DuPage County)
The glacial terrain gave rise to the preserve’s McKee Marsh, and provided conditions that preserved remains of a woolly mammoth here.

Illinois Beach State Park
Zion, IL (Lake County)
In addition to expansive marshes and sedge meadows, features globally rare panne (sandy interdunal wetland), with many unusual plants that make for a showy late summer and fall.

Elizabeth Lake Nature Preserve
Richmond, IL (McHenry County)
One of the highest-quality lakes in Illinois, surrounded by graminoid bog and fen, calcareous floating mats, and sedge meadow.

Glacial Park
Ringwood, IL (McHenry County)
Large, hilly preserve containing restored marsh and sedge meadow, the remeandered Nippersink Creek, and an unusual leatherleaf bog.

Cowles Bog
Dune Acres, IN (Porter County)
Calcium-rich floating mat fen in Indiana Dunes supports tamaracks and white pines, surrounded by locally rare red maple and birch forest.

Trout Park
Elgin, IL (Kane County)
Contains a rare wooded fen, with seeps and springs issuing from ravine banks; harbors many species unusual to Illinois.

Volo Bog
Ingleside, IL (Lake County)
The only acid bog in Illinois featuring all stages of bog succession—marsh, tamarack woods, shrubland, sphagnum bog, and open water.

Related articles:

Into the Wild: Appreciating Prairies, CW Summer 2006

Rebirth of the Oak Woods, CW Fall 1997