Spring 2005 Nippersink Creek McHenry County, Illinois

Meandering through northern McHenry County, the pristine waters of Nippersink Creek offer some of the most enjoyable paddling in Chicago Wilderness. The small and peaceful Nippersink is at its best from April through June, when higher water carries canoes easily through nature preserves, farmland, small towns, and eventually into the Fox River’s Chain O’Lakes. (As early as July, however, canoeists may find themselves dragging their boats along the shallow bottom.)

The must-see for both beginners and old river rats is a 6.7-mile stretch through the McHenry County Conservation District’s (MCCD) Glacial Park, an easy two-and-a-half hour paddle. Start at the Keystone Road landing (with ample parking, washroom facilities, water pump, and sandy put-in) and head northeast, or downstream.

In 2000, the MCCD, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, McHenry County Soil and Water Conservation District, and many others teamed up to restore this first 3.2-mile leg — now a grade-A stream — from its past service as a channelized agricultural ditch. They removed drainage tiles, re-established smaller tributaries, and finally, through massive earthworks, rerouted the Nippersink to its original meandering course. Graded, lipped banks now slow natural floodwaters, creating habitat for rebounding reptile and amphibian populations — look for Blanding’s turtles and northern water snakes. The team replanted the banks with native plants: look for wild rice, cup plants, and blue flag in the wetlands, and wood anemone and Dutchman’s breeches in the groves. Engineered riffles and pools have helped to re-establish a healthy river bottom.

Painted turtles. Photo by Rob Curtis/The Early Birder.

The Nippersink’s remarkably clear water seems to sing in ecstasy while traversing through the shadows of the ominous Camelback Kames. The varied cries of birds drift out to the stream from the re-created wetlands scattered across the Nippersink Valley. Pied-billed grebes, loons, sandhill cranes, and even whooping cranes and osprey visit during their spring and fall migratory flights.

Past the snowmobile bridge, about an hour’s paddle from Keystone, the creek changes abruptly. After the open, fresh beauty of the first section, this stretch — which has not yet been restored — feels like a dirty tunnel. A disturbed floodplain of invasive silver maple, green ash, buckthorn, and Asian honeysuckle crowds out the native wildflowers. Paddlers must skirt fallen trees, making this section potentially dangerous in high water. The banks are sheer mud walls, and the bottom is muck and silt. The fish notice, too: in the creek’s first section, biologists recorded high-quality species such as redhorse suckers and smallmouth bass among the 1,106 fish counted, with only six carp. In the “muddy tunnel,” however, biologists caught and released only 230 fish, 115 of which were carp.

The old railroad bridge of the Prairie Trail North bike trail marks the beginning of the third section within Glacial Park. The towering bur oaks of historic Beck’s Grove dominate the healthier riverside here. Boulders again protrude from the water and the bottom has returned to a mixture of gravel and cobble.

The silty take-out at Pioneer Road is easy to spot on river-right (the paddler’s right side when facing downstream), just before the Pioneer Road Bridge. A set of wooden stairs leads up the steep bank to the parking lot above (and to water and restrooms).

Daytripping
Those with a yen to paddle all day can continue farther down Nippersink Creek. Lyle C. Thomas Memorial Park, in the town of Spring Grove, has a landing approximately 4.5 miles (about two paddling-hours) from the Pioneer landing. The take-out, with parking and restrooms but no drinking water, is on river-left under the Blivin Street Bridge. This stretch has quicker water and offers some nice riffles and runs that are a lot of fun for practicing maneuvers. Just past the Pioneer landing, paddlers must duck under a length of fencing wire strung across the creek (the wire may be hazardous in high water). There is also a second wire about a quarter-mile before going under the Route 12 bridge.

The Nippersink Canoe Base, a quiet landing in a small bay, is two more hours downstream. The take-out, with restrooms, is on river right about ten minutes after paddling under a railroad bridge.

For some cross-training, an exhilarating 12-mile paddle-and-bike loop requires some extra planning, but gives adventurers a total body workout. After the 6.7-mile Glacial Park paddle, bikers can soar up and down the wide-open spaces of Pioneer Road, head west on Harts Road through the park, follow a service road northwest through the park, then bike south on Keystone Road back to Keystone Landing — a roughly five-mile ride.

For more information, including a strongly recommended pre-paddle check of water levels as well as the line on good fishing holes, call the MCCD at (815) 338-6223. Maps are available at all sites or from the main office. Both landings are opened at 8 a.m. and closed at dusk. Canoe rental and shuttle can be arranged with Tip A Canoe Rental in Burlington, Wisconsin, (414) 537-3227. Ed’s Rental in McHenry, (815) 385-3232, has canoes for rent but no shuttle service.

Foraging
The Grand Old Mill, (815) 728-8904, is right around the corner from the Keystone Road landing at 7514 Barnard Mill Road. Located on the banks of the Nippersink, it has a complete menu as well as an excellent fish fry of baked or fried cod every Friday night.

If you want a cold beer and some award-winning chicken wings, travel north to Doyle’s Pub & Eatery, (815) 678-3623, 5604 Mill St. just off of Rt. 12 in Richmond. MCCD Natural Resource Manager Ed Collins loves their Irish beers.

For a great breakfast, local residents especially enjoy three eateries. From the north in Richmond is The Cubby Hole, (815) 678-4624. From the east just out of the town of Fox Lake on Route 12 is the Marine Grill, (847) 587-6130. And less than a mile from Keystone Landing is the Busy Bee II, (815) 728-0929.

Bedding Down
For a totally unique experience, visit The Richmond Inn, (815) 678-2505. A block east of the antique shops of downtown Richmond, this restored Victorian Home nestled in five acres of wooded property offers a Bed & Breakfast, cooking school, fine dining with top chef David Del Gatto, and a day spa.

Camping is also widely available in the area, including the primitive group site in Glacial Park along the Nippersink, (815) 338-6223, available by reservation and accessible only by water. It’s perfect for stargazing and fishing for catfish, especially in spring before the mosquitoes come out. The Chain O’Lakes State Park, (847) 587-5512, also has excellent camping facilities, trails, and boat access to the Fox River and Chain O’Lakes.

Events
Searching for Sandhills March 26, 1–2:30 p.m. at Wiedrich Education Center in Glacial Park.

Wondering About Wetlands April 28, 7–8 p.m. at Wiedrich Education Center.

For more information and registration for both programs, call (815) 479-5779.